I am currently about one or two years away from being fluent in French.
Or maybe 6 months or 6 years.
Basically my French is growing at approximately the same rate as my hair : a speed best described by the word, seriously?
I foresee that the day I officially become a mermaid (the day my hair covers my breasts) and the day I award myself the title "fluent in French" will fall on approximately the same day. I also predict these two events will beget a very good, very strange party.
I have found a fantastic method for surviving both the slow trek towards fluency and the "Winter" in Belgium (meaning September - May, which is similar to Seattle, except about 10 degrees colder and 10 shades darker with a less glorious summer by far) - this method is hot yoga. I know, I know -- the proverbial "American eyes" are hereby commencing their wild rolling. I know what you are thinking: white-person, upper-class, control-freak snobbery disguised as enlightenment. I know. I'm from Seattle, after all, and am thereby quite proficient in judgmentalism (please note: I am losing my English). However I am currently stuffing my face with saucisson sec (salami), drinking my third beer (beer) and wearing the same jeans I have worn for approximately 87 consecutive days. I also found a very large rubber-band in my pho soup the other day and proceeded to eat the entire bowl, virtually undisturbed. I tell you these things in hopes that I change your perception of me enough to enable you to keep reading about hot yoga. And also so you continue to like me. Or not. (No but really, please like me).
The reasons I love hot yoga are all distinctly sexual, as are the reasons for my love of most things.
Imagine this scenario: a beautiful, dark room, heated to 102 degrees and slightly humid, causing you to sweat almost immediately upon entering. Super hot already, right?
You exist for the session on a mat exactly the size of your body - your own space - and yet you are surrounded by dozens of other sweating, panting individuals. They are with you but do not need you. They will be happy or not, regardless of what you do. They are not your concern and you are not theirs. You are nearly nude, and regret even the paltry clothes you have on because of the glorious, counterfeit, Texas heat. The class begins. You are told what to do and when, and you obey.
You hear, "Right leg up," and up goes your leg.
I had forgotten the efficient seduction of simplicity. I decide nothing and I risk nothing: I just am. It is a similar sensation in my body and mind to sitting under the stars and knowing viscerally that I am insignificant, tiny, nothing. These thoughts are a cool breeze on the swollen, pulsing wound of narcissism : of having spent spent my childhood and 60,000$ of education learning that I am everything : my insignificance is a tremendous relief. "Left leg up."
Moments when I am not required to design (or to believe the illusion that I can design) the trajectory of my life are a kindness. As my sweet man would say with his inimitable lips and lisp, "SO good... so good."
Living life as an expat/immigrant means having tremendous weights tied to your body. These weights both inhibit and exaggerate your movements, making you sometimes paralyzed, other times awkward. Any movement you carry out causes these weights to swing - the repercussion of their momentum causes a virtual heaving, like being thrown off balance after hurling but not releasing a bowling ball.
These weights launch you into a trajectory that would normally feel excessive, even ridiculous. From the outside perspective the behaviors and decisions and failures of someone living life as an expat must look very strange indeed. One failed social encounter can birth a gigantic, screaming baby of self-loathing that would normally take months of repeated failures to even conceive.
In addition to causing excessive, bizarre repercussions of movement, these weights make movement more difficult. I have found paralysis almost my default in living here - not that I am not running, working, etc - but in everything that I do I am less seen, less heard, and somehow the space I occupy in my world is less real. When I visit the USA I have the profound and immediate sense that though it is quite simply no longer my home, it is there that I take up space, similar to waking from a dream or changing from a gas to a solid state.
I know that much of my experience is language based, and comes from living here. I am not visiting. We bought a house; we live here. My partner is not American. I am not on a 3 or 5 year contract for work. His family does not live in the USA. If we have a baby the name Tristan will sound like I am naming my baby "sadness" because "triste" is "sad" in French. I am not saying that living in a different country is less or more difficult if you are with an American or if you are only here for a few years or for the experience of living abroad - I am saying it is different.
The people I know who live here, who have lives and jobs and babies and futures here, who can't understand their in-laws unless they learn a different language, those are the people in whom I have been able to see my reflection. Those are the people who have understood what kindness is in a very different way than the people who are adventuring.
It feels strange to say, "I am living abroad." What the hell does that mean? It sounds like I am on a trip in the early 1900's -- like what I am doing is temporary -- like it is a phase or a time that will pass when I finally "come home" after learning to paint at Downton Abbey or writing a book about being an expat.
Is it fun living here? Absolutely. Is it more fun than when I lived in Seattle? Absolutely not. Is it less fun? No. Is it more lonely? Yes. Is the food better here? No. Are some things better here? Yes. And on and on and on.
It is different. And part of the difference is feeling those weights hanging from my body : they are less now than when I first moved here, but they add weight to every decision, every silence, every failure, every success, every joy -- they cause me to feel less like myself and more like a frenetic mess of insecurity, a vapor, entirely dependent on whatever way the wind blows.
Living here has also quieted many places I have known in myself to be perpetually humming with anxiety. Which place do I prefer to live? I don't. I live here.
My hair is getting longer and my French is getting better. I may understand the words of my interlocutor, but I remain unable to intuit the nuance/melody of her words. Where is the humor? What is the accent? What is she really saying?
Nuance has become my best friend and my worst enemy.
Body language takes you to a point, and then you find yourself standing on the edge of an abyss trying to jump over and over and over, waiting for the moment when gravity finally works for you.
Learning a language is agonizing.
Knowing a language fluently feels like nothing, like an absence of a pain or effort instantly taken for granted. W e don't feel gravity even as it holds everything in the universe together. You jump into the air and then you come back, thanks gravity.
We are advised constantly in our lives to notice the small things, to connect, to make eye contact, to lift our eyes from our phones as we go through normal life. "Look at the sky! Look at the person beside you!" But living here has meant trying to catch my breath because all I can do is notice the small things; if I am not concentrating with every muscle in my brain on every stimulus swirling and careening past, I might miss the ONE intended for me. If I am not straining desperately to understand the words of the person speaking, I will most likely miss their meaning entirely, despite how open I may be.
The nuance of so many things is lost entirely to me, and this is one of the most grievous losses of living here. In my own language I feel highly adept in the world of nuance. I might even say gifted, or maybe just addicted. But living abroad (ie: having tea with the girls from Little Women) I have the sensation daily that I must maintain hyper-vigilance in order to understand even the most basic of messages, messages that feel more like mathematics, 1+1=2. "I will change your address but I need you to come back next week," hooray, I understood and communicated, but I am still missing the nuance, the tone, the music. And the daily loss of hearing and enjoying this music is exhausting and devestating and boring. And lonely.
It's the edges of moments that really let us in to someone else's world - the cracks and texture around what we say.
The other night as I going home from class I watched an interaction between a bus driver and a woman he let into the bus at a spot where there was no bus stop. She knocked desperately, he let her in (he was being nice). She entered the bus, paid, and went to sit down. As she turned to walk back the bus driver said, "Merci n'existe pas?" (literally, "thanks, it doesn't exist?" / "You're not going to say thank you?") He said it in an innocuous tone, and I guarantee I never would have felt his nuance if I had not understood his words. She did not understand his invitation/confrontation, and shrugged her shoulders, smiled and sat down. He rolled his eyes and drove like a maniac for the next few minutes. I saw it all and understood it all, and I was on a high for the next few hours. I was on a high because I had not been trying to understand - I just did. I had an emotional reaction to the situation before even realizing I had done the "math." It was gravity.
Now imagine the hot room, a voice telling you what to do and when, and the pure joy of obeying and knowing the only nuance in the room is in your muscles. So hot. In so many ways.
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